Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Cops and Robbers

I should have never went for orange juice. It runs through your head, over and over, like a broken record. I could have stayed at home. I could have gone without it. I could have picked another supermarket. I could have just said hi and left. But life doesn't work like that. Life can't be managed in the past. You make decisions in the moment and live with the consequences. That's life. On Sunday morning, my craving for Citric brand orange juice cost me a whole lot more than the $6.50 pesos sticker price. It cost me $450 pesos, a bit of my pride, and a hard-learned lesson about corruption, poverty, nationalism, and depravity. Ironically, I never even got the OJ.

It rained torrentially on Saturday night. It was the type of rain that happens in Buenos Aires during the spring. The type of rain that falls in streams rather than drops. The kind that floods streets, closes subway lines, and stimeys even the toughest of car winshield wipers. We closed the bar early because of it. After a quick game of darts and a trip to Burger King, my night was almost over. My friend Louis and I headed back to San Telmo just as the day, and the rain began to break. What had started out as an ugly Saturday had transformed into a beautiful Sunday morning. The outdoor Feria, or open market, was being set up piece by piece, as it always is on Sundays. The trees were green with week's worth of heavy rain and there was an odd silence in the streets. It was kind of like a tranquil calm before the storm of 4,000 tourists were to fill the streets. You would be a fool not to want to walk around and enjoy this type of morning. Even if you had been up working all night. So Louis and I did just that. We took a walk.

After a few quick passes of the plaza, a half of a joint, and some debate over whether or not pigeons could fly more than a few yards at a time, we decided to pack it in for the night. I knew I was thirsty, but a half joint will do that to you, so I really thought nothing of it. We got into the house and Louis went to his room directly. As the door shut on the basement room door, I had second thoughts. OJ. Fresh squeezed, no sugar added, delicious. Why the fuck not. It was 8:30am. The only place I knew where to get it was just opening, and a mere 3 blocks from my house. So I made a u-turn and walked to the store.

I got to the supermarket, doors just opening. Jackpot. I would be in OJ heaven within a matter of minutes. Then I heard my name called, loudly, from across the street. It was my roommate Jose, a bone-skinny 18-year-old Ecuadorian film student with a penchant for drinking, and a bad habbit of being a loud drunk. I couldn't ignore it, so I crossed. Jose was at the door of a 24-hour hamburger joint. These are pretty typical down here. It's generally a rough crowd that hangs there in the early morning, especially on weekends. They serve beer, cheap food, and most importantly, NEVER CLOSE. If the steel bars surrounding the food counter don't immediately turn you off, the smell of piss and the sight of sleeping drunks, whores, and lost-looking hippie travelers should. Almost as soon as I entered, Jose was kicked out by security for being too rowdy. "Security", and I use the term loosely, was man in his mid 20s, average built, with a shitty blue uniform and a police issued nightstick.

As I turned to make my exit and go back to the supermarket I heard my name again. "Andy, my friend!" yelled a short, well-groomed dark-skinned man dressed in a tuxedo jacket and pants, no tie in sight, and a white undershirt unbuttoned almost half way. It was Wilbur, a Peruvian man who works as a waiter in the plaza. I had met him 3 months earlier, ironically, in this very place. He's a fixture in the neighborhood, and one of those guys who remembers names, faces, where you're from, and what you do for work. He's quite remarkable in that sense, actually. Wilbur waived me to join him at one of the plastic picnic-esque tables that lined the sides of th walls near the windows. I obliged and pulled up a seat.

At the table with Wilbur were two girls, most likely in their mid-20s, and gorgeous. The skinnier one was from France. She had that look too. I knew she wasn't from around here. The shorter, darker girl was from Puerto Rico. They looked like they had been partying, but in a place like that, everyone did, including me. They had beer. Once again, I obliged. We were about halfway into our second glass, and the French girl's third cigarette, when Wilber motioned to the slender one to accompany him to the bathroom. Now, as a bartender, and a street-smart person in general, I knew exactly what that meant. Unfortunately, so did the security officer. As he glared down the aisle towards the bathroom he feverishly sent a text message and motioned towards the manager. In Argentina, cocaine is relatively cheap, plentiful, and unfortunately an all-too-normal thing to do at 9am after a heavy Saturday. I paid it no mind and started talking baseball with the Puerto Rican.

Within minutes of Wilbur's return, two P.F.A (Argentine Federal Police) patrol cars pulled up in front. My first thought was "sucks to be you Wilbur". He had witnesses, but he didn't seem to be phased. I gave the French girl a look as if to say, "you too". She was stone-faced. I will admit, however, that I felt a tinge of fear. You get used to that down here. The police have never rubbed me the right way, and as a foreigner, you can never be too careful. We've all heard of nightmare scenarios with police. Corruption, extortion, physical abuse, threats, planting evidence. This is an unfortunate side effect of a police force that is grossly underpaid, has very few checks and balances, and has a reputation for being dirty. As the two uniformed officers approached the table, I noticed that they weren't looking at the girls at all. They were looking directly at me and Wilbur. My nightmare had just started, and I already knew that this wouldn't end in a hand shake and an apology.

We were ordered to stand up and move to the back of the restaurant. The girls stayed at the table, and Wilbur and I went to a darker corner of the room, no windows. By the time we reached the wall, 2 officers had turned into 8. Four were in flac jackets, the others in plain uniform. One of them seemed to be the captain, but I couldn't really tell. The next ten minutes was like the movie "Groundhog Day". "Do you have any coke", the officer kept asking me. "No", I repeated over and over. I emptied my pockets about 5 times. Each time a different officer. I removed my shirt as well. Had my mouth searched and my pants shaken. Over and over this continued.

The officers did the same to Wilbur, had a bit of a huddle, and brought him into the bathroom. I asked if I could go and was promptly denied. Within minutes I was flagged into the hall where the bathrooms were. The bathroom hall looked exactly as you would expect it to in a place like this. The smell of urine was unbareable. The only light came from a solitary red light hanging from the ceiling. There was green mold draping the walls like it was painted there. Wilbur was in a stall with the biggst officer. He ordered me in. I panicked, and said no, trying to justify my innocence. Before he even processed his response, the other officer kicked me in the back of the knees. I fell fast. It took my breath. I was pulled up and shoved in the 5-by-5 stall.

Officer big man told me we would both be booked for cocaine posession. I gave him a look like he knew I was innocent and he was fucking with me. He didn't care. He said we were together, and that Wilbur was merely holding the coke for me. We all knew this wasn't true, including Wilbur, but the officer was fine with his story. He asked me if I'd ever been to an Argentine jail. I said no, as I've never been to any jail. He told me that if I didn't want to go he needed a favor. Money. Wilbur's pockets had been searched. Nothing. My pockets were filled with my weeks salary. Roughly $450 pesos after the Burger King and taxi costs. They knew how much I had. I had emptied my pockets a mere 10 minutes earlier. I tried to give him $100, but it didn't work. He reached in my pockets and took it all. Then he told us to leave seperately, not look back, and not be seen for the rest of the day. If I hung around, he said it would cost my legs. I didn't argue.

The walk home was short, but one of the longest ones I've ever taken in my life. "I hate it here", "I hate police", "I hate Wilbur", "I hate San Telmo". It all swished around my head like a bad dream. A confusion of anger, sadness, and the horrendous feeling of being violated. I didn't even notice that the Feria had started. No green trees, no pigeon talks, no OJ. Sleep felt good, and I settled in pretty well. I had to go back to work in a few hours, and I couldn't afford to be in a bad mood.

And so it was. I had my first real experience with police corruption. It was my first taste of what I'm sure thousands of people go through each year. In an eerie way, that actually helped me cope. I was unlucky, but certainly not an anomaly. I tried to think of it like an Argentine would. Wake up, smile, go about your life, and appreciate the good moments in your day. Move on. Hey, at least on the bright side, it made the ousting of my beloved Red Sox from the playoffs a bit easier to swallow. Life is short. I never want to forget that.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Bar Rules 101: Argentine Edition

The theme is real simple. You go out to a bar for a variety of reasons. You go to socialize, drink your pain away, celebrate, get laid, listen to music, dance, or maybe just to get out of the house. No matter how you cut it, the underlying theme is that people to bars to have fun and escape what would seem to be the underwhelming normalcy of their day-to-day grind. But once you dim the lights, crank the tunes, and get the sauce flowing, people behave in very strange ways. Most of the time, you as bargoers don't even realize this. But you know who does? Bar workers. That's right. The people who serve you drinks, listen to your stories, flirt with you, and occasionally kick you out or clean up your puke. So, as one of the aforementioned workers, I've decided to put together a list of common mistakes made by you, the customer, as well as some varying groups of typically horrible customers. Don't worry, we all have our douchey bar moments we wish we could take back. Maybe this will help you stop before you become "that guy" or "that girl".

Here it goes:

The Yeller: This is one of the greatest ways to make a bartender angry. Yelling at the top of your lungs when everyone can hear you perfectly. Alcohol kind of has the same effect on your inner volume as listening to headphones while trying to talk to someone. You can barely hear yourself, but the rest of us want to stab you in the larynx with a dull pencil.

Whistling and Snapping: Snapping and whistling is a good way to never get served a drink. And don't tell me it's cultural. You know what else is cultural? Female circumcision in parts of Africa. It doesn't make it right, scumbag. I am not a dog, nor am I "boy", "kid", "boss", or "chief". Next time try making eye contact with your server, and motioning in a polite way that you'd like something. Your mother should have taught you this, but in lieu of her knowledge, learn by reaction.

The Playboy: Now, this is a tricky one, because these guys can usually make your bar shitloads of money. A playboy is a guy who usually goes to a series of the same bars regularly with the sole purpose of scoring pussy. They're not always good looking, but they ALWAYS have money. The problem is that if you don't have a vagina, the Playboy gets a bit too alpha-male and often gets aggressive with other male customers and staff. Also, the Playboy often comes off as creepy or too aggressive, which can have a negative effect on your female clientele or staff. Which brings me to my next point...

Hitting on the Bartender: Sorry girls, but this is a double standard. Deal with it. As a bartender/customer for around 8 years, I can safely say that I've never walked into a bar and picked up the female bartender. Does it happen? Yes. Is it common? No. Believe it or not, most female bartenders I know have boyfriends. If they don't, they usually have rules about dating/fucking customers. Just because she's nice to you doesn't mean she wants to fuck you. She gets paid to be nice to you. Male bartenders on the other hand are typically whores for easy chicks. Sorry, but it's a double standard. What can I say. But when little miss C-cup with daddy issues and an effinity for making rash decisions wants to slosh around with the guy that made them a strong daquiri, it's kind of hard to say no. Sexist? Maybe a little. Don't believe me? Give it a try.

The Freeloader: No one likes a freeloader in any realm of their life, but in bars, freeloading scumbags are an epidemic. There's usually one in every group. The guy that never buys a round. You know him, don't you? Shit, you may even be him. The freeloader in a group sense rarely bothers the bar staff. After all, they're poaching free drinks off your dumb ass, not off us. However, the freeloader that makes our blood boil the most is the one that rolls in solo, buys 1 or 2 drinks, and expects a night full of free piss. In almost ANY other industry these people don't exist. But there's something about a bar (mainly alcohol and social looseness) that inspires cheapness and undeserved self importance. Of course I understand the concept of volume-based business and discounts, but most of you freeloaders are just plain old fucking greedy. EVERY bartender tosses out a free beer or two, but it's usually because you deserve it, and never because you ask for it.

The Showoff Tipper: Everyone loves tips. That is not an opinion either. It's a fact. Think about it. If someone gave you extra money for working hard, being polite, or just because they're in a generous mood, would you say no? Of course not. That being said, some people step over the line with the manner in which they tip. Flashing around your cash and showing the rest of the bar exactly how much more generous you are is pretty corney. Don't get me wrong. We will smile and take the money, but it's still lame. It's kind of like the bar equivalent of men with small penises reving up the engine to their red sports car around women to show them who's boss. We know who the big tippers are without saying anything. And we respect and treat them well. Being flashy about tipping is an attempt to draw attention to YOU, and less about showing your appreciation for the service.

Part 2 Coming Soon...

Monday, September 21, 2009

Passport Wins



I'm the last person you should ever listen to about relationships and picking up girls but since you're reading this you're not really listening, yeah? So read this:

The first trip I took to BsAs I didn't party all that much the first couple of weeks, I was too culture shocked to really get into it. The first time I really went out big was after I gave a speech at the game industry conference they have down here, EVA. I gave my speech in english to a standing ovation and then rocked out to dinner and drinks in Recoleta with the VIPs from Sony and the top 4 people in the local industry. Everything was paid for, it was baller as hell. After that the Sony people wanted to know where the party was at so my local amigos took them to Crobar. The Sony expense account was charged a couple hundred dollars to reserve a VIP table with a few hundred pesos worth of drink credit. I stood looking over the dance floor and told my friend "I feel like a demon god."

I went around trying to dance with some girls, they were kinda doing their own thing and that got me nowhere. So I was sitting back drinking and my man Chilkowski who runs NGD Studios told me "we have a saying here, let me see if I can translate it. The wallet kills the stud, but the passport kills the wallet."

"No entiendo," I said.

"Speak english."

It was just that simple.

So I went around speaking english to different girls. And I started getting e-mails, if I had a cell phone at the time they would have been phone numbers. I would go up, project a good onda and say "how y'all doin?"

"Oh, where are you from?"

"Why, the good 'ol U, S and A."

"Oh what part of the USA?"

"Like, California." (Seemed like the best State to rep, I'm not really from California.)

"Oh I love California! My dream is to go work in fashion in Los Angeles."

"Yeah I've been to LA a bunch of times, hell of a city."

It was easy. The english, to a large subset of argentinas, is like a hot knife melting through any of the typical reservations from talking with a stranger. There was a time when being American was like a shining badge of hope; and I've heard stories of what Russia was like for expats earlier this decade, or east Asia. These days America has pretty well done shot its global image and the attitude is interested for sure, but more from a point of novelty rather than admiration. None of that history really matters though, its still the ultimate opener.

Lots of guys figure this out early in their time here and they fall on it like a crutch. The truth is you have to speak some spanish, the more the better. English is a great opener but its only sustainable with only one of fifty girls who really know the language. And being foreign definitely doesn't give you full license to be a total dick, you just have to be less of a dick than the typical argentino.

I say, lets cross-pollinate cultures to the max.

Sunday, September 20, 2009

My Ayahuasca Ceremony Experience

My friends have told me that I'm a very stable tripper. My friend Duncan once had a bad time on shrooms, thinking that all the blades of grass were judging him after I told him to shut up, and he sped off down the road repeating loudly "I do it because I like it." I was able to shift between a seeing god mentality to being practical about saving my friend's life, and after that was resolved I enjoyed the rest of my trip. I once walked into a Bank of America after being up all night on acid, wearing a blue-stained Army of One t-shirt, a black neon hawaiian shirt and a faded blue stripe on my face, and I had a completely straight faced conversation about BoA's international wiring terms to Argentina, which caused this cute Ethiopian girl to start cracking up at the end of the conversation when I said in monotone: "thank you, this is something I'll be considering."

Robert Anton Wilson has told me that there are 8 circuits of consciousness - I had previously lived on the seventh at the max. He also suggest that DMT, the active ingredient of Ayahuasca, is the nuerochemical key to the ultimate level of consciousness.

The thing had been built up in my head for years. In college I could score almost anything but DMT was far too exotic for Virginia Tech. I had to move to South America before it would become available to me. Going into it I wasn't sure whether it would be a tumultuous vision quest or a detached, out-of-body experience like my grandpa experienced on ketamine and scotch before deciding he'd rather blow his brains out than live with my grandmother. I was most afraid that I wasn't sufficiently detoxified and that my 300 pesos investment would be for naught. These were rather like the fears one has before losing one's virginity, until you find that you're (hopefully) with someone you love and everything is just awesome, fears were not needed. In this case, I was about to have sex with god.

On the subway three juggler kids were performing, a little girl and two boys. I had a glass bottle of coca-cola full of water that I was going to drink during the ceremony, I let the kids drink it instead and gave them ten centavos, even though I could have given them twenty pesos. The one kid wanted to keep the bottle, just to have something, but I told him I needed it and he gave it back.

I arrived at the house, a couple blocks off the Malabia subway exit. The house has a buena onda, skylight, couches, bean bag chairs, wind chimes, scented candles, stuff like that. There was a loft room where we all stashed our shoes, an entry hall with the atrium skylight and a main room where the ceremony took place. They had taken out all the furniture that was there from my contraindications interview a few weeks prior, there were little mats lined about, a pillow for each, and red and orange vomitus buckets tucked to the sides along with a liter bottles of water. People were advised to bring their own sleeping bags. I was immediately struck by the demographics of the people there, I at my age of 24 I was probably the youngest person in the room. These were not teenage psychonauts, these were mature human beings bearing the weight of decades of life experience and seeking to have a resolution forward. Clearly we were in for something of a different tenor than a party drug.

Geronimo is a young shaman with much lighter skin than I expected and short dread-locked hair, he politely greeted everyone. When I met him I asked "sos Geronimo?" and he said "lo mismo" with the kind of basic grace you'd expect from a wizened diplomat. We all sat down and he laid out the rules, during the ceremony nobody is to talk to each other or interact, the bathroom is around the corner, breakfast will be at 8 and we can all talk then. Simple and respectful, and in retrospect the whole thing had this vibe that you are an adult taking care of your own detox, respecting the rules and taking responsibility for your own experience, but they will be there to help you in any moment. I saw a used 2 liter Pepsi bottle filled with a thick, purple concoction, like the syrup for Grape Soda with the consistency of cough formula. I asked the lovely young woman sitting next to me if that was the Ayahuasca, she informed that it was. When I was asked her about the experience she said "es tu proprio" and "no esta en el mente, es en el corazon." All I could do was try to get a good stretch in so as not to waste precious brain cycles thinking about unnecessary aches and tensions in my body during the experience.

Two little girls helped in the ceremony, they were probably about 8 and 6; both wearing pink outfits with pastel-green socks. The 8-year old wreathed our heads in a fragrant tobacco while the 6-year old playfully bent her toes against the ground in rhythm to Geronimo's blowing over the Ayahuasca bottle. It was like The Holy Mountain meets Disney, but overall wholesome and family friendly. He then poured the mixture into a little China cup and the 8-year-old came over to offer it to me first, I look at her, shrugged, took it by one hand and threw it back. The taste was bitter, like everyone says, but I didn't think it was so bad. I'm the tipo to chase whiskey with beer and put tobasco sauce on everything, so maybe I'm outside the mean. The cup was returned, re-filled, and passed out to everyone in turn. When everyone had been served, the lights were cut and Geronimo began his chants.

After taking the elixer I immediately felt a sense of alteration, but I couldn't tell if it was just anticipatory jitters or a real chemical interaction. Then I started to wonder if I was going to get the experience, a concern I remember having shortly after taking mushrooms and LSD in the past, how little I learn. I just figured "no expectations, keep doing the prana yama." Geronimo's chants became more fierce, more passionate. I kept filling my lungs and slowly releasing them. I started to see faint black-and-white closed eye visuals of aymptotic cusps and centipedes, of dawns and horizons and big bangs. And before I knew it I got everything I ever wanted and more, and I was getting higher than Holy Fuck - as advertised.

It was not a hallucination. It was not a vision. It was like being held by god. It was like having sex with the universe. It was an honest, sincere consummation of everything; supreme ecstasy, an ascent into heaven. Geronimo's throat wobbling was the music of the spheres. Since DMT is produced by our pineal glands and released three times during our existence - birth, puberty and death, I was basically experiencing the awe of death preemptively. And the evangelion is that death is beautiful, death is the path to awe, death is eternal life. I saw my entire life ahead of me, the growth of my son, the love I will share with some woman out there and the other kids we'll have, working the earth, the bi-cameral local government and me and my friends having cervezas while the other political party, our wives, conspire in the other room. I felt overwhelming compassion for all humanity and a profound desire to make love every single day until I blissfully die.

Then I heard everyone start puking. The girl told me that the first time she took the sacrament only two out of twenty vomited. Well, this must have been a particularly strong batch, because everyone was puking up roses. The delicious nuances of their upchuck reflexes was the most hilarious thing I'd ever heard and I let out this satyr-ish belly laugh. Geronimo belched loudly. I laughed at that too. Then I farted a little bit.

I then decided to focus and ask the plant for some answers that I had wanted. Ever since I was 18 and I learned about both DMT and the form of programming known as the memetic algorithm, I've had the dream of building a software engine that can produce interactive content dynamically, it goes by the name of Directions-Thoughts-Materials or DMT, and I've sought out the chemical as a means of understanding directly what would be involved. I realized I already had the architecture pretty well defined, so I asked what kind of authoring language would the engine require. Geronimo's chanting gave me that answer. I received the keystone that will begin a year's worth of work. The authorship language will be a form of chant. People can just chant into the mic and lay down lines of script that will define how a bunch of data spins into a battlefield or a cathedral or a valley which is then populated with warriors or lovers or farmers, or really whatever the hell you want to come up with. Then on your second pass you can go over the text with the keyboard and the dev environment would offer a sumptuous feast of inverse parsed accents that you can add to the "nam"s and "ni"s and "chihueps" and so forth and these accents will code the permutations on the resulting creation. Finally the wave form that your ending throat wobble takes (the "hei, wueya, wueya wueeeaya wueeeeeyaaaaaaaa") will spin the matrix of variables that balance the gameplay to whatever style you desire to imbue. Obviously making that work with real software, data structures and everything, is a tall order, but I have the user experience encapsulated, and it is wonderful. We could all be shamans with this engine, spinning universes and dramas and meaningful decisions out of our tender voices. This was less than fourty minutes into the experience, and already the pearl of my quest was obtained. Ayahuasca was a gracious host.

I leaned forward, prostrate, and I realized why Moslems pray the way they do. I also realized why Arabic men sometimes beat their wives and sodomize them, they're pissed off about living in the middle of the desert, very simple. I also realized that when you pray like that it doesn't matter where you live, you are surrendering to the great lord. I resumed my upright position and sat in a hindu meditative stance and appreciated why they do that. Geronimo came by and poured florida water over my hands causing them to clasp together and I appreciated once again from my childhood why Christians pray the way they do. I hit my head against the wall and touched the top of my scalp and realized why Jews wear Yamachas on that position. Later, Geronimo came and doused my head with water, touching that top-point with the print of his thumb, and I saw a great pyramid rising into an erupting pulsar of light. There is no religion, there is only god and a multiplicity of techniques that work.

Feeling bold, I then asked the plant what was in store for humanity in 2012. The plant answered me honestly, "isn't it obvious? Humanity is on the verge of receiving Holy Death." I think what that means is that regardless of whether we all die in some massive extinction event, or there are a bunch of wars and disasters and lots of folks die and the survivors have a better attitude about living, or we have this Singularity where everything is coming up bubblegum and we all get to live forever, we will embrace the paradox of death and wake up. From this point on, death became the overriding theme of the night.

I accepted my own death, but then I started to think about some blog posts on this guy's survivalist site and I ended up getting the notion of someone pointing a gun at my head... in my head, and I couldn't get it out. I started thinking about what that would be like, then I started thinking about what I would feel if my yet unborn son had a gun pointed at his head, and I started to think, if it my was me on the other side of the trigger and pulling it meant eliminating that risk to my family, would I do it? Could I end another human life? I decided that I could, but if I had to give away ten million dollars to prevent myself from ever being in that kind of position, I would.

The weight of the hammer of a gun hung in mind my as infinite, as a halving of a halving of a halving. It was the same sensation I had when I was a child and I would have nightmares of an infinite tower that could not be climbed or two strangers on an infinite desert plane barely missing each other and by chance, dooming themselves to an eternity of solitude. I thought about Mel Gibson's Apocalypto and how these cultures bathed themselves in death rites as a way of anesthetizing the paradox, cutting off heads and throwing them down steps, while the priests know astronomy and math to pull the strings and the stern Catholics look charming in comparison. Geronimo went into an impassioned chant and I pictured starving mothers in Somalia with breasts deflated over a caved-in rib cage and eyes filled with "why?" I thought about what it would mean to be truly "safe" from those who might want me to share what I have, to pull the trigger consistently and with precision, how I would hate to be good at that, how I felt sorry for the soliders and the mercenaries who resigned themselves to professional butchery. I experienced the last minute of the life of Cho Seung-hui. I rolled the word "death" and "muerte" over my frontal lobe, tasting their textures, comparing the connotations of those sounds to the Japanese idea of death which is more of a rebirth, which seems only practical in a culture where at one point (two, now that I think about it) a hundred thousand people just evaporated in a flash of white light and a million anime plotlines would be born from the ashes. I weighed whether it is better to have the Christian mentality and guard your life and that of your family and produce as many new lives as possible and be like that, or whether its better to acknowledge that all that life-loving behavior is just what your brain wants you to do and we're all just floating around a big electron and it doesn't really matter whether someone shoots you and your kid in the head or not, which I imagined is the attitude of a lot of the people getting the poorest lot in this world.

I found myself at the brink of enlightenment, filled with love, bounding out of the socio-sexual moral circuit into the higher circuits, to the very higest, and being dragged back down to the reptilian paranoia of kill or be killed in the name of an unborn child. But then I realized, I can do better.

I realized that there's two ways this global deleveraging, this global transformation, can play out: either the gulf between rich and poor goes exponential and lots of people get shot in the head, or smart traders and people who have lots of money can act as conduits, taking it out of the markets where government bailouts have nowhere else to go and bringing it into the real world, investing it in sustainable human happiness. That's the easiest way that this process can go on peacefully. Imagine if a mere 10% of hedge fund managers decided to donate just half of their monstrous winnings to things like the proliferation of grass-based agriculture, renewable energy, water and transportation infrastructure, sponsoring children to become happy adults instead of desperate potential killers. We're already talking about a couple hundred billion dollars. That alone could make a tremendous difference, if applied intelligently. We can make this happen. We are the ones we've been waiting for.

I changed from being a person hanging on to fear and selfishness to being a person fully embodied with intent to make my life the best it can be and then leverage that to helping everyone I can. If I make 20k shorting Eurodollar Interest Rate Futures, I'll spend half of that sponsoring street kids in Buenos Aires. If I make 200k following silver or natural gas or palladium I'll spend half of that building infrastructure in rural Argentine towns. If I keep winning I'll keep giving more and more until the money itself is worthless.

I couldn't sleep. I just hung out, thinking about what I wanted to do, about the women in my life, about my son, about gentler things than Holy Death. The sun slowly arose. I got about forty minutes of sleep. Then the little girls and their mother returned to administer breakfast. We all sat around and feasted on fresh fruits, on bread with that chocolate-like substance that has no refined sugar in it, on mate and tea. We talked. It was human and divine. With much adieu I left and took the subway back home to write all the things that I had in me to write, to tell my dad that he was a great father, to get back in touch with old friends, to scream to the trading blogs I frequent that the secret is not caring about the numbers and then giving it all away. I saw a poor kid juggling on the subway and I slipped him that 20 peso bill with no fanfare.

Ayahuasca



I could go on an on about my own experience, but I'll save that for another post. The short of it is, I went into the experience with a lot of ideas and came out with precisely zero; and I've never felt cleaner. I am God's anointed one, an ascendant starchild, and you can be too. This isn't about me at all, this is about you, you are a genius and with the right spark you might just realize it. If you want to, here's how you can properly cash in on premature enlightenment for about 80 USD.

1) Detox for one week. All that stuff you put into your body every day to stay sane in an insane city, you gotta get that shit out. Just take it easy, deleverage, no caffeine, no cigarettes, no marijuana, no alcohol, no spicy foods, red meat, fried foods, and take it easy on the refined sugar. Get a little exercise, do thorough stretching, sweat a little. Abstain from sexual activity for the 24 hours before just to have fresh libido. You will need to at least sweep up the temple that is your body.

2) Attend an Ayahuasca ceremony, in Buenos Aires there is a service that produces these ceremonies called Urkumanta. Take of the Ayahuasca.

3) This one is very important, after you imbibe the bitter fluid you need to drink a bit of water and start breathing prana yama. Real slow in through the mouth using the tongue as a suction pump to effortlessly take in air, real slow out through the nose. Just keep at it, don't worry if you're doing it right, you're going to do great. Nice and slow, nice and deep, fill your lungs, focus on the breath. This dispels all nausea and magnifies the beneficial impact.

Do these three things and you will get everything you ever wanted out the treasure vault that is your soul, you will gain a profound appreciation of what you are, what you aren't, why you're here and why you must live for the day for now and forever; you will experience joy more profound than a multi-stacked orgasm with someone you love or the birth of your own child or being born or becoming famous or creating an immortal work of art, and most importantly you will get higher than Holy Fuck.

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Its A Re Heavy Life Boludo

What do these three pictures have in common?








They all explain, in a very loose metaphorical kind of way, why we haven't updated in a month and a few monedas. We were living the palatable life here, we got caught up in some Argentina drama, and we got spat out as indigents.

Andy lived in more places in a few weeks than there were Presidents in that couple of weeks in 2001. I found myself carrying everything I owned in a relay for a few blocks to the nearest hostel, making eye contact with a leather faced guy driving a beaten 20-year-old car with a half-shattered windshield and no window pane.

"Es complicado," he said as I tried to stack a fan on top of a wheeled suitcase.

"La vida es," I replied.

At the end of the day you dust off your shoulders, look at your losses and scratches, and say "fuck it, this is Argentina."

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Argenhot of the Week !


Oh how I want to be your Romeo, Julieta. That's right, this week's Argenhot of the Week is none other than 28-year-old Porteña sensation Julieta Prandi. She was first discovered at some low-end casting in Martinez in 1998, her senior year of high school (how hot is THAT?), and her career took off from there. She's been on a bunch of garbage TV shows down here making guest appearances, but her true successes came as a bikini and high fashion model. One lil' fun fact you probably didn't know; she has written over 150 poems, due for publication in her own compiled works poetry book later this year. She's also now the co-host of an Argentine TV show called "Zapping". Applaudi per Prandi !!!

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

La Plata



I´m going to describe my investment strategy that I think could work for other expats, and try keep it simple. Basically, I´m betting on the price of silver going up while also expecting the price real estate to go down. I want to sell silver after some paradigmn changing events come to pass and buy some land from Argentines who are willing to haggle down because they need the money. I think land is the best thing to own provided you´re willing to live on it and do some work with your hands, I think that if you don´t have the freedom to grow your own food, you aren´t really free.

In the spirit of keeping this simple, first the practical stuff, you can get exposure to the price of silver in three ways:

- first you could go to one of the jewelers near Tribunales and ask to buy some plata "para inversion" and they´ll sell you a physical piece of metal, I think everyone hold some physical metal in case all the electronic systems break under the weight of their own fiction. Just think of it as saving money for the long term, the idea is you´d take this down to a bank when banks are in dire need of solid assets and they´d pay you a lot more than you bought it for.

- second, you could buy SLV through a stock account, SLV is an exchange-traded fund that supposedly holds silver, when people buy more shares of the fund the fund buys more silver to keep things level. If you already have a stock trading account, this is an easy thing to do, you don´t have to pay much over the spot price of silver like you would in a jewelry store and you can sell really easily.

- third, you could get really aggressive and play Silver Futures, with leverage! I have an account with OANDA where I can bet with as little as one virtual ounce, if you have a couple hundred bucks or so and you want to work with that, OANDA is your best option. Lets say you have $137 bucks in there with a 10:1 margin, that means you could buy $1370 worth of "silver" and let it ride, if silver goes up 10% from there you´d double your money. If silver increases 5 times over you´d have fifty times your money. If you want your account balance insured and you want an exchange-traded instrument, you should get a Futures account with Tradestation or Interactive Brokers, you´ll need at least 5k, preferably closer to 10k for that. When trading with leverage, you shouldn´t fire off all your ammo at once, buy conservatively on the dips and set orders above prior peaks to automaticallly buy bigger chuncks. I like to use a pyramid pattern, buy 1 chunk, then set an order to buy 4 chunks above a prior peak, then 3 chuncks above the next peak, then 2 above the next, then 1, then let her ride.

Now that I´ve established the how, I´ll address the why.

Basically all the paper money we use is based on fantasy. Money as we know it is a pyramid scheme. Governments go into debt with Central Banks for say, 10 bucks, that 10 bucks is lent out to commercial banks ten times over, so now you´ve got 100 bucks out there, those banks can make a bunch of loans to each other and multiply the money another 10 times, so that 10 bucks is now 1000 bucks. Most money exists electronically, the cash you take out of an ATM is only a small fraction of the money supply, if more than 10% of bank deposits were withdrawn the rest of the money would evaporate. Argentines get this more than Yanquis because it actually happened here, tipo multiple times boludo. So you´ve got this risk of everything imploding all the time, and on the other hand you´ve got this constant pull to keep increasing the money supply with more debt, because the previous debt has interest attached, and that interest has to come from new money to get paid. The pyramid keeps expanding, money gets tied up in paying interest, prices rise.



The peso went into hyperinflation three times in the 80s, 10,000 pesos got stamped as 10 australes, then like a year later 10,000 australes got replaced for 10 pesos, then they did the 1:1 peg with the dollar, which lead to more inflation by 2001, and then the banking system collapsed. People who held gold and silver during this time were able to take it down to the bank and get cash to buy food or pay rent. Paper you can print, metal you can only dig up.

The dollar is the biggest pyramid scheme ever, it has funded uncounted invasions and coups, along with bood jobs, private jets and the purchase of Argentina´s best assets. That scheme, like all others of its kind, will collapse, it is just a matter of when. For decades time was bought for the system by wrangling oil deals with the Saudis, and also by supressing the price of gold and silver so people would buy stocks and Treasury bonds instead. The way that you supress prices is buy selling what you don´t have, called "short selling", big banks that are in arms with the government can short sell without even borrowing the stuff, this is called "naked short selling" even though its mostly hidden.

Usually when you short sell you want to buy at a lower price to even the score and pocket the difference, but if your game is to support a global financial empire, you might just keep these positions open, because buying up enough gold and silver to return what you borrowed would raise the price. If the price of gold gets bought up by hedge funds, Indian wedding planners, scared doctors and redneck survivalists, the US government can just bail out the banks that are short. But the US govt. doesn´t own any silver. Also, silver has a lot of medical and industrial uses, there is less of it than gold, its cheaper so you can buy some even if you only got like 20 bucks, and its historically cheap. In the Roman times 12 ounces of silver got you an ounce of gold, during the British empire the ratio was closer to 20. Right now its like 75 or 80 and the highest the ratio has ever been as 100, when these metals were at their historic lows. Just holding this stuff you´re allowing yourself a 5x return on investment, while gold maybe has 2x in it. Leveraging you could do extremely well, provided you don´t fumble the ball, which is the big "if" with leverage.

Lastly, land right now is fucking ridiculous in Argentina, people are asking fourty dollars per square meter for a small plot in Cordoba last I checked online, something like fifty grand for a whole hectare, if you´re willing to spend close to a million dollars you could get down to like 3k a hectare, but sheesh man, you´d have to be stupidly hopeful to think that all those people are going to sell for those prices. Argentina´s economy goes through these hysterical cycles of shock and awe, crash and boom, wild and wet, not unlike dating an Argentina. Because real estate is the only thing Argentines see as a reliable investment, it tends to react in a delay to this cycle, so while Argentina is already in a recession the quoted real estate is still living in 2005. Once people start really hurting for cash and the flow of foreign currency gets tight, they will lower prices.

Let me put it this way, I´m not trying to predict the future, I´m just trying to ride it. I like people and thats why I´m trying to tell you how to avoid getting thrown off. If things recover and we get iPod living with the growing jobs and all that, cool, adelante, your silver investment won´t go to 0. If we´re in the eye of the global economic hurricane, then you´ll be able to turn your silver investment into enough cash to buy some land at lower prices. Or at least you´ll have some shiny stuff to look at.

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Dating Emergency 101: An Argentine Woman's Perspective


by Antonia Cossia

“Oh, yes, I am the great pretender; pretend that I’m doing well. My need is such, I pretend too much; I’m lonely, but no one can tell” -Freddy Mercury


Spare me some of your attention and I will try to explain just how many argentine women have become just as beautiful as sentimentally complex. For most men, falling for one of us can be an amazing experience. Either amazingly wonderful or amazingly rocky.

Most of the complications come because some of us are scared to death to show how we feel, just in case the man in front of us plays us for fools because “we are too easy”, or leaves because “it’s too much” for them. That is, of course, in case they even explain why they’re going away.

Ever since we’re old enough for make up and high heels we have to deal with pretty much the same awkward situations any other girl has to deal with anywhere else in the world: first period, first bra, first date…

There are a few differences when it comes to social pressure: for example, Argentina has one of the highest rates of eating disorder cases, mostly among young women (by that I mean girl from the age of 12 to 18).

When it comes to argentine men, I honestly cannot explain what it is that they have inside their head, so I will not bore you with dull hesitation. Some of them will speak honestly about their feelings, some of the won’t and most of them will say exactly what they don’t want to say, but will say it for the sake of not looking undermined in front of their peers.

Argentine women, on the other end... We cannot make up our mind. Either because we are proud creatures, or highly prejudiced; because of fear, shyness or because we are still hung up on a previous relationship and we are oblivious to the man we have in front of us.

Whatever the reason may seem, a man needs to know patience is always a key to getting where they want to be. We will try and keep you guessing, and create some mystery, and in the end you were either “picked” or not: we knew the answer all along; we were simply making sure you were “worth it”.

Hesitation is our specialty, no doubt about it. I must be honest: no matter how tough we want to show ourselves, we are all just hoping the “gaucho” will eventually use his brains and notice how we could turn the amazingly rocky into amazingly wonderful. Again, it’s all a matter of making sure we won’t be wasting our feelings, our time and so on and so forth.

Found any contradictions yet? I bet you have.


*

E. G. Hesitation, a one act play by an argie-female:

I cannot believe this is happening to me, but it IS happening to me. I am checking my emails every 2 minutes and I am glancing at my msn account every 4 seconds (not joking, situation is critical). I can’t smile, can’t tell jokes and I can barely eat (which is outrageous for my standards).

This never happened to me before, I promise. I’m having second thoughts for the first time in my life: Is he ever going to talk to me again? Does he even care about me? Was this whole “thing” one big fat bogus in my head? Why can’t he just talk to me?!

Funny thing is: I am usually the smart-pants who will either lecture or “pick up the mess” when a guy dumps one of my friends. Yet this time around, I find myself writing about how bad one can feel when things go wrong with someone you particularly cared about.

Let me try and put it in words: I feel… sad, ok, then anxious, the sad again, barely ok, a little less anxious… and sad again. I cry a bit, smile very little, smile a little more… and cry another bit. There is nothing any friend, sister or anyone can tell that will make me feel better. Word.

And by now, I don’t know if I am being stupid, if I was even more stupid in the past, or if he is being a complete bastard because he is not talking to me. Or maybe I disserve it. Now, that cannot be it, right?

See, I messed things up from the start. I let him sweep me of my feet… and then I let my big mouth get in the way. I kept the “just a flirt/just sex” speech far too long, and played along as if nothing meant anything to me other than an occasional meeting.

I was dishonest, but not to him: I cheated on myself by forcing to believe my own speech. I practically ate my own garbage! And I fed him the same thing until he was stuffed and ready to go. Even if he was only in for fun, with all the more reason I should have made it clear I wanted more.

Maybe I still do, but please do not let him know.

All of those “coulda’ shoulda’ woulda’” are completely useless now. They are “Drama Queen” material. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is none other than typical argenhot behaviour.

Lovely feeling, this lovesick thing, right?

Monday, July 20, 2009

Dia de Amigo


"Feliz dia de amigo" scrawls mercilessly across the news feeds of my facebook account. Complete with poems from girls, gushing soliloquies of personal memories, and vague whimsical compliments, you immediately realize that for Argentines this day is a big deal. And although it does have a sort of hallmark-esque cheesiness to it, the sentiment is dead serious. But to fully understand why, you need to understand the concept of friendship through the eyes of an Argentine.

Argentines, as you may have read in previous posts, are extremely passionate people. And the camaraderie between friends and family is no exception. For starters, look at how they greet each other. A hug and a kiss on one cheek. And that's for EVERYONE. Whether it's your first time meeting someone, or saying hi to an old friend, that's how it works. And it's very important. In fact, at times it's pretty annoying. When you walk into a room, you often have to go around kissing and hugging 10 or more people. But if you don't, it's insulting. Guys, girls, doesn't matter. That's how you greet. Even if you are busy doing something, you stop, and greet everyone. A hand wave or a thumbs up just don't cut it.

Now, I do realize that friendship as a general term is universal, but there's something about the depth and seriousness of how people treat friends here that is unique. Look at the tradition of drinking Yerba Mate, an Argentine staple beverage. The routine is simple. One person serves the mate and passes it in one direction, much like a joint, until the recipient finishes the entire cup. When it's done, it gets passed back to the server, refilled, and passed to the next one up. This goes on for the entire process, sometimes hours. It's a basic concept of sharing that really identifies the concept of Argentine friendship. And it's the same way with food, booze, weed, whatever. If you eat in front of someone without food, you offer them some, ALWAYS.

Taking the concept even further, many Argentines extend the same sharing concept as far as to let you stay in their house, borrow something from them, or help you find a job. And you don't even really need to know someone that well to get these courtesies. I've so far crashed about 3 times at the house of a security officer who works next door to me because we went out for beers and the train to my house wasn't running yet. But it's not like he tossed me a blanket and told me to hit the floor. No. All 3 times, the guy has set me up in the bed in his son's room, moved his son to the couch, and even went so far as to have his wife prepare full-scale roasted chicken feasts when I woke up. I don't even know the guy's last name, but I'm a guest of honor after a few late night beers. The crazy thing is, down here, that's the norm.

It's not to say that there aren't the same universal issues with friendship down here. Sure, there's betrayal, phonies, acting distant, being a douche and ditching your buddies for your lame girlfriend. All that happens here just like anywhere else. True friendship, however, runs deeper than the Rio de la Plata, and it's a big factor that makes Argentina a beautiful place to live. I mean shit, how else would you be able to get through the hyper-inflation, crazy hot chicks, low wages, and corrupt political system if it weren't for the strong bond of friendship.

I like this holiday, and you should too, even if you're not down here. So do yourself a favor, tell your friends you love them, buy the first round tonight, and plant a hug and a kiss on your co-worker, even if it's awkward. I'm going to hug some Argenhots, write a few sappy text messages, and spend time with my adopted family of crazy locals. Gringo. Out.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Argenhot of the Week !


It's been two painstakingly long weeks since you last gazed upon some barely-dressed Argenculo. And morally I can't let that slide without feeling just a little guilty. So this week you get two, and neither have the last name Attias.

Your first cup of piping-hot Argengreatness is Ms. Zaira Nara from Belgrano. Until recently, Zaira was better known for a sex tape scandal involving her sister, Wanda Nara. Wanda, a famous vedette who once dated Maradona, rose to Argentine notoriety when she leaked a tape of her blowing (and apparently she was good at it) some Argendouche all over the internet. Past sins forgiven for her sister's mistakes, Zaira has carved out her own career as a top model and TV personality. She is now leading a major campaign for Pantene, as well as hosting a morning CHILDRENS TELEVISION PROGRAM......Yes, that's right. Children. Anyway, enough about that. Let thy Mate gourd runneth over with a heavy pour of her ample hotness.

Ok. I lied about the "neither have the last name Attias" thing. Sorry, can't help it, this family has Spartan-esque genes. So, here's sister number 3 (there are 4 in total). Honestly, with all that's mentioned above, I think I need to change barrios and head up to Belgrano. There must be something in the water. Gaze into those deep brown eyes, start hating your life, tell your boss to suck it, and move down here. Gov. Sanford did, and who can blame him. Everyone loves that Atti-Ass ;) Gringo. Out.

Citric: Jugo of The Gods



Sometimes you´ve got to appreciate the simpler things in life, and the native joys of the place you live. Living in South America, you´ve got to appreciate that here, fruit grows on trees, and that makes for some delicious juices. Citric is an exception in this country, a business that sells a pure, awesome, delicious product for a reasonable price. While The Coca-Cola Company wants to sell you boxes of from-concentrate, juice-like beverage with 30% fruit in it, these hombres are 100% exprimido, pulp and everything. Not only is the orange juice on the par of premium Florida product, but at Tucuman prices, they also make Pomelo juice, Lime juice and Lemonade. Haven´t tasted the last two but the Pomelo is bright pink, none of this washed out beige coloring you´re used to, and the taste is just real. All the hype about organic, relocalization, eating right, its just words compared to the taste of this goodness.

I am in no way paid by the company that makes these juices, I´m coming from a genuine angle that this stuff is integral to the good life in Argentina. Drink it and become immortal, if only for a few minutes.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Gringo of the Week !


by Patrick Dugan

Mark Sanford was, a few months ago, a potential contender for the Republican presidential candidate in 2012, thought now it looks like that role will fall to Ron Paul. Sanford knows how to get the most out of his vacation time, he recently took off to get-up with his Argentina liason, one Maria Belen Chapur. Mr. Sanford, you could not have picked a better city and nationality of woman with which to ruin your career and marriage. This is one politician that knows the meaning of Argenhot, and if you´re not convinced here´s a racy e-mail he wrote:

"You have a particular grace and calm that I adore. You have a level of sophistication that so fitting with your beauty. I could digress and say that you have the ability to give magnificent gentle kisses, or that I love your tan lines or that I love the curve of your hips, the erotic beauty of you holding yourself (or two magnificent parts of yourself) in the faded glow of the night's light - but hey, that would be going into sexual details ..."

If you are into conspiracies you may enjoy Cryptogon´s take on the issue, suggesting that Sanford was tagged and played, his personal desires being used as a chip for some political reason that we can only guess at. I had to do something to take this above gossip rag level.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Apetito por el Arte


por Antonia Cossia

El nombre de la exposición ya dice mucho de lo que el visitante puede encontrar. En “La mesa está servida”, los artistas plásticos Milo Lockett, Felipe Giménez y el dibujante Miguel Rep exponen no sólo sus obras, sino también el modo en que trabajan.

Durante las dos semanas previas a que abriera la exposición, Lockett, Giménez y Rep trabajaron en sus dibujos, instalaciones y pinturas en una sala del Centro Cultural Recoleta, en el barrio homónimo de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires. “Estamos abriendo la cocina”, contó el artista marplatense Felipe Giménez.

A diferencia de otras muestras, la dinámica inicial que Giménez aplicó en “La mesa…” consistió en pedirle al público su aporte: las frases que más recordaran de sus madres o padres. Aquellas palabras que los hubieran marcado, acompañado o inspirado.

“Traté de que fuera una frase que fuera lo suficientemente conmocionante”, arriesgó Giménez. El resultado fueron dos sendos murales cargados de frases, desde el imperativo “Abrigáte” hasta el refrán “A Dios rezando y con el mazo dando”.

“La idea era que yo escribiera la frase, o sea, yo soy el que hace la obra, pero con las ideas de los otros. Es mi mano lo que está sobre la obra, pero son las ideas las que me hacen escribir la obra”, explicó Giménez.

Durante las dos semanas previas a la inauguración de la exposición, cualquier visitante del CCR podía participar, ya que en ese tiempo se buscó “romper un poco la frontera” entre espectador y artista.

El resultado fue la obra “Lo que me dijo mi madre, lo que me dijo mi padre” y además, la “Éstos son los hijos de estos padres”, donde los participantes de la experiencia ponían su nombre a una de las figuras de un tercer cuadro.

“Hacer estas obras era que grotescamente se vea que la obra a uno le viene del otro, y que la gente también aprecie eso. Que ellos forman parte de la obra que uno hace”, expresó Giménez, mientras seguía trazando a mano alzada un dibujo.

Por casualidad, justo en la última semana de la “cocina abierta”, se realizó el segundo festival Ciudad Emergente en el mismo Centro, con participaciones de bandas, DJ, artistas gráficos, puestos con publicaciones y autores independientes.

El público que acudió a la muestra, organizada por el Gobierno de la ciudad, se encontró con dos silenciosos artistas sentados en una mesa de tablón, dibujando sus nuevas obras.

Eran Giménez y Lockett, dispuestos a charlar con ellos, y a demostrarles que en el taller de un artista, simplemente “no hay secretos”. Ahora, la mesa está servida, y los murales, junto a las instalaciones de Lockett y el aporte de Rep, serán exhibidas en el Centro Cultural Recoleta hasta el 12 de julio.

Buen Apetito.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Argenhot of the Week !


Just to prove that God isn't fair to the rest of us, this week's A-hot de la Semana is last week's (Agustina) lil' sister, Emilia. Imagine pool parties at that house??? Mr. and Mrs. Attias, I salute you. You know the funny thing is that there's still one more sister to go, and a 19-year-old brother, who I'm sure is the most popular kid in class and has no problem filling the house for those weekend Asados in Belgrano. Argggg, hotness ruining my writing being even remotely interesting. Just, just, enjoy the Attias family genes. I'll get back to you later....No boobie pics for this one. She's too Cheta :) Gringo. Out.

Monday, June 22, 2009

The Do's and Don'ts to Dating in Argentina


There are many ways to start a blog post, especially when it's about something you're passionate about. However, on the topic of dating in Argentina, I think the best way to do it is with an anecdote. True story.

It was around 8:30 AM on May 17th, 2009, and I had just been dumped and kicked out of my girlfriend's house after a record-setting short stay of 2 nights, and with no real explanation as to why. Confused, homeless, and heartbroken I went to go crash at a youth hostel that I had worked at some months earlier. As I sat at the wobbly, green lacker-covered table in the briskly chilly empty living room, I could barely keep it together. With my head slumped in a mix of confusion, rage, and "what the fuck now" thoughts, I barely noticed the room, the guests, or even the fact that I was wearing gym shorts in 40 degree temps.

At that moment, my friend Bob, and American who's been living in Argentina for around 6 years stopped mid-track on his way to the coffee machine and tapped me on the shoulder. "Girl trouble," he said, as if my look were a beacon of obviousness. "Argentine?," he followed. "Yup," I glumly replied. "What was it? Psychological breakdown? Ex-boyfriend fucking with her head?", he said. "Both" I replied. "Ahhh, that's nothing dude", said the svelte Nebraskan as he poured his coffee and shot me a grin, "this is Argentina, what did you expect? Now grab a cup coffee and perk up man, it's fucking Monday".

And that, in a nutshell, was the single best piece of advice I ever received on the psychological, rollercoaster-esque mind fuck that is dating in Buenos Aires. Period. The simple truth is that in a city teaming with passion, energy, anger, sadness, and beauty, nothing in the world of dating and relationships is easy. And I mean, NOTHING. The beauty of it, however, is that in an eerie way, you don't feel so bad because everyone goes through it.

In fact, until you've felt the deep love, unbridled lust, tragedy, deceit, anger, and confusion of this dating world, you truly haven't lived as a Porteño. To clarify in more specific terms, here's a list of "do's" and "don'ts" that will give you a rough guide on what to expect in your quest to find your one and only Argenhot lover, or at least get you laid a whole bunch:

(Note: I am referring to women because as a heterosexual man, that's who I date. Deal with it. And if you find it sexist, go fuck yourself. Don't read it.)

Do's and Don'ts


Do: Be aggressive when you meet an Argenhot for the first time. And I don't mean in the physically pushy or creepy way. Argenhots have an immensely powerful douche radar, and your half-hearted attempts of a little grab ass or an inappropriate comment will be met with either a harsh "no" or a swift taste of open-palmed justice. Trust me, you want neither. The trick is to be honest, confident, and charming.

If you're in a bar, buy her a drink, talk for 5 minutes, end with a compliment, and then let her get back to her friends. This shows you are interested but not desperate. Find her 15 minutes later and ask her how her night's going. Argenhots love attention, but hate being smothered. Also, if she smiles and asks you questions, compliments you in any way, or asks you to dance, you're in. Just roll with the flow and act like you knew this would happen all along.

Girls here are blunt if they aren't interested. Lean in for a kiss on the fist song after your return. Don't pussy around. This will work 90% of the time. Seriously. Then get the digits, tell her she's a good dancer (even if it's not true), and tell her you have to go. Unless she's really sending you sex vibes, don't invite her home yet. She'll feel a better sense of self worth, and the Argina will come in spades at a later date as a result of it. Trust me.

Don't: Be that guy. Buenos Aires has one of the highest douche to non-douche ratios of single men in the world. Like I said before, the women here are very in touch with this. It's also a major reason for their irrational emotional outbursts and short-term bouts with psychosis. By age 30, your typical Argenhot has weathered a pretty heavy storm of mental abuse, infidelity, feelings of physical insecurity, and worries about the future. That's some heavy shit, so be gentle. Or better yet, BE DIFFERENT ! Whistling, cat calls, ass pinching, and inappropriate suggestions are not only douchey, they're amateur, and every other ass in the city is doing it. It gets you nowhere.

Do: All the things your mother should have taught you in regards to traditional chivalry. Be a fucking gentleman, or try your best to do what you think a gentleman would do, even in the smallest of situations. Machismo is a big thing down here, and the sad thing is that men are still looked on by many from both sexes as the dominant party, or the protector. A douche uses this cultural norm to dominate or control a woman into doing whatever he wants. A gentleman uses this to show a woman that he is reliable, strong, and cares about her over himself. It's not rocket science.

Hold the door open when you enter a building or get into a cab, and let her in first. Also, speaking of cabs, use one when you go out on a date. "Let's take the bus", comes off as lame as it sounds, and shows that you don't even care enough to break your daily routine for her. If you're broke, cook for her or find something cheap, funky, and local, as to avoid the bus situation. In fact, do that even if you have Cristina Kirchner money. Once again, it shows you give a shit.

Pay for things that you invite her to. Don't fall into the trap of being Mr. Open Wallet, because Argenhots have a keen sense of how to take advantage of this. Learn how to be slick with it. Most likely, if they're in their 20's, your Argenhot lives with her family, is studying, and really doesn't have the cash to do the things they want to. Spoil her within your means, be creative, and take her out at least once a week to something she's never done before.

Think this is tough? Nope. Not in a city where 85% of the restaurants have the same menu, Brazilian music is considered "exotic", and clothing comes in 3 sizes. Be different, dick! Use the ol' google to find that percentage of the city that is over-the-rainbow different and unique. It's out there, you just need the stones to go look for it.

Don't: Tell them their friends are hot (and most likely they are). Instead, constantly tell them they are a "beautiful person", and not "you have a great ass" (they most likely do). Argenhots want to feel REAL, and want to be appreciated for who they are. The city is filled with a virtual army of hotness, so keep the "man her tits are great" conversations for you and your buddies when she's not around.

Also, when you're dating, IMMEDIATELY introduce them to all of your Platonic female friends. Argenhots are very competitive, and will constantly expect you to be cheating on them. They'll still be jealous and vindictive at the mere fact that you have ANY females friends to begin with, but at least they'll appreciate the gesture.

DO NOT
show them pictures, or discuss any irrelevant info about any of your ex's either. They will automatically become insecure, jealous, and angry. Plus, they'll give it back to you 10-fold when they show you the pics of some shirtless soccer player who used to long-dick them back in the slutty days and still facebooks them from time to time. You chose to date an Argenhot, so now she's the center of your world. PERIOD.

Do: Play the gringo card whenever possible. "What's a gringo?" you say. Down here it's simple. If you are from anywhere outside of Latin America, Africa, or Asia, you are. It basically means white-skinned foreigner. But in most cases it's referring to English speakers from countries with much stronger currencies and a distinctly different way of life. Argenhots LOVE gringos, whether they admit it or not. Mostly because we're different, foreign, and they think our accent's cute.

On the accent tip, there is one key rule to follow: LEARN FUCKING SPANISH ! They love your silly gringo accent, how you can't roll your R's, and how most of the past tenses confuse the shit out of you. That being said, if you can't communicate on even a basic level, they will lose interest quickly. True, some girls will speak a decent amount of English. But these are the girls that have traveled, studied in private schools, or actually lived in a gringo country. To them, you're old news, and unless you're super rich, they pretty much could care less.

Put a little effort in to it and don't be scared. You may sound like the gringo version of Fez from that 70's show, but believe it or not they think it's cute. I have no idea why, but I don't question it. Also, lingual fumblings and flirting go better together than peanuts and beer, so ham it up a bit, it's fun.

WARNING to FELLOW GRINGOS:
Do not commit to bringing a girl back to your home country, permanently staying in Argentina, or attempting a 6,000 mile long-distance relationship should you good back. This not only can be emotionally devastating to an Argenhot, but it's being dishonest with yourself. Save that "oh my God, what happens if we need to switch countries" conversation for at least 2 years into the relationship.

They know going into it that there is a good chance you'll be high-tailing it out of their currency disaster-laden city to greener financial pastures, or to get back to your family and friends. It's a tightrope you have to walk constantly as a gringo, and they know this. Just be careful, and be honest to both her and yourself. You should be cool.

Conclusion


In the end, dating in Argentina is a choice. In my opinion, Argentine women are the most beautiful, crazy, passionate, romantic, and hysterical women on earth. The truth is, I love it. True pleasure always comes with a little pain. Plus they're super hot. Google it. Have fun, and don't take life to seriously. You only have one. Gringo. Out.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Argenhot of the Week !


This week's hot of Argen-nature is Agustina Attias. Agustina is from Belgrano, and is the daughter of a famous rugby coach Carlos Attias. Who cares. More importantly, her two sisters Emilia and Maria Barbara are also uber-argenhots, models, and deserve honerable mention as well. Sorry, no boobie shots this week.

Friday, June 12, 2009

The Argencon in a Soy Shell



by Patrick Dugan

The Argentine economy is basically one big call option on soybeans, it expires sometime after the next election. A call option is a bet that the price of something (GMO soy in this case) will increase over a certain level before the option expires. It's an all or nothing bet; if you win you can win big time, but if the thing expires, well, thanks for playing.

All the people you see walking around in suits in downtown Buenos Aires, making their 5k pesos por mes, are probably living off of the exports business or international companies that operate in Argentina because the exporting foundation makes the place seem relatively stable, and thus makes the lower costs sound like a good deal. The meat, wine, fruits and so forth are all great but not enough to keep the foreign money flowing up the Rio de La Plata like so much dirt but in reverse. Soybeans are it, and for a while, soy was a hot commodity. This all changed last Summer, when commodity prices imploded along with everything else, due to enormous amounts of money suddenly no longer being pretended into existence (in finance-speak: "leveraged positions were unwound"). Should have cashed that bet Kirchners.


Bubble Gum

See, while the whole Center-Left, Menem-lite, export driven recovery was happening between 2002 and 2008, with pretty good annual growth in the Argentine economy, the government was happily suckling on those beautiful flows of cash. Nestor Kirchner had himself a sort of slushee flavored with a syrup made from billions of digital dollars and funky accounting rules in the congressional budget. That budget may have looked something like this:

2007 Argentine Federal Budget (All n pesos)

Welfare - $500,000,000

Water Infrastructure - $250,000,000

Army - $1,200,000,000

Roads Maintainence - $50,000,000

Railway - $200,000

Mas o Menos - $3,500,000,000

Not a great budget estimate, but probably more work was done in the past minute typing that than the Argentine congress does in a year. In case you missed it, the Mas o Menos part is like a blank spot on the map, its there, but it doesn't mean anything. Thats the kind of money that pays expenses on trips to Europe, that gets laundered into real estate buys in Villa Angostura, that pays back favors. Its like Looney Toons subtlety in larceny: "mirra aquella!" and then "yoink!" or whatever the Castellano equivalent of that expression is. This is in contrast to the United States where the thieves use advanced mathematics coupled with brilliant PR and slogans like "Quantative Easing" (as in: "easy, easy there... yeah, thats it.")

Paid Politics

For a while everything was great. Jobs were being conjured into existence by contracts with foreign companies and the keystrokes of bankers who seemed pretty cool about the whole corallito thing - you know, in retrospect. Lavagna, the econ guy at the time, juggled price controls to keep poor people feeling rich on steak and wine - its so much easier when their expectations are lower, in some countries they have to engineer huge credit expansions to get people SUVs and PS3s with HDTVs. Meanwhile, the Central Bank played floating-currency-peg chicken with the train of international hot money flows. There was this incident where the Kirchners made a stand about some policy to the global banking cabal and were threatened with a speculative attack, but they bent over and got even drunker on slush funds, like sovereign sorority girls. It was a time of innocence, 2005, when everthing was right. The local agriculture oligarchs were making great commodity and foreign exchange profits at the expense of national inflation, the political oligarchs kept ripping off their piece, the global oligarchs thought everything was bastante neo-liberal, and the welfare checks arrived on time by Argentine standards, mas o menos.

Gran Buenos Aires is driven by a few big sectors: tourism, government, and international companies. Patagonia has fossil fuels and minerals, though these mostly under-tapped due to being in both the middle of nowhere and Argentina. The breadbasket is all ag, mostly GMO soy. The rest of the country? Old money and welfare recipients.

Guess how the old money got to be young at one time? Agriculture and savings made from working for international companies. Guess what the welfare recipients are being payed for? You guessed it, re-electing the Kirchners! After all, they're not working for the government, the government is working for them, giving them the basic living money they deserve, manana. It is a grand pretzel, or perhaps a really twisted empanada, whose absurdity and beauty are at once awe-inspiring and sickening. Kind of like one of those microwaved, month-old empanadas so many restaurants serve over the counter because they don't want to throw it away and take a loss.

In the up years of the decade-long Argentine cycle, the country was kind of like a forward contract, the price goes up, you're worth more, simple, efficient, hold it and let it ride. You could sell and lock in that profit, or you could use your value at the moment as the basis to buy more, because you know there was plenty of borrowing behind the initial position. When you buy with leverage and the thing goes up, you don't have to bother yourself with selling, you can just double up, and why not, you're feeling lucky. The thing is, gravity, karma, probabilistic mean reversion, whatever you want to call it, if you're rolling strong year after year you're probably due for crisis, if only to take you down a peg. Its ok Argentina, most other countries fell into the same trap.

About Last Year...

In the first half of 2008 there was a premature food crisis, money was in the process of zipping all over the globe trying to chase profits, resulting in a series of bubbles (still is). Grains became expensive on paper and lethally expensive for many. Then it happened with oil, then global stock markets. It was on the news, people were getting stressed out. In the second half of 2008 the price of soybeans fell 40%, other grains fell even more. Argentina had its own little crisis-ito to deal with because, unlike its smug neighbor Chile, the Argentines were basically blowing the benefits of the good times. Instead of investing in any long-term infrastructure, like say a revamped rail system, renewable energy manufacturing, a lightened tax load to encourage small business, they spent it on European vacations, welfare and wine subsidies. I can't generalize to all Argentines, but the government fucking blew it, bottom line. So what they'd do when the bill arrived? Scrambled for a solution is what they did. They ended up cannibalizing the pension system, which is currently in process in the States via more subtle means. It bought some time. It´s the Argentine way.

So basically, the Argentine response to the crisis was to cash out the benefits of the last several years, but instead of investing those benefits into something lasting, they double down on the exact same thing. And this time around, the bet is time sensitive. The metaphorical option expiration, in this case, is the government becoming insolvent and no longer being able to maintain the living standards of millions of welfare recipients, which means 2001 all over again.

Better Luck Next Time

Why would anyone make this decision? Picture three archetypical people you're likely to see on the subway: the fourty-something in a suit, the reggeton kid with the rooster hair and the morocha girl with the small nose and the quiet eyes. Imagine a decision making entity that is a blend of all three, you've got the desperate climb toward comparative wealth, the casual fuck-all attitude and the alternatively sensible and reactive temperament. Then put this decision maker in charge of a $600 billion dollar fund with the incentive to make a bunch of money off of that fund and no real repercussions for failure. Hit me with that call option on soybeans.

What's really cool about Argentina is that it manages to not only swing between extremes but also defy probability in how it manages to spectacularly fumble and also how it happens to resurrect from the rubble. This time around, the most likely scenario that can be predicted based on available information is the China rescue, though to be fair about half of Latin America, most of Africa and all of Oceania is banking on that too. China is a whole other post, or five, but basically they've got the plata and they've got a lot of hungry people with not enough land or water to feed them. The swap line between the People's Bank and the Banco Central is a promising signal, allowing the country to tap a credit line of about 60 billion Yuan Renminbi, which would be worth even more if the Yuan starts appreciating as a reserve currency. Maybe China will start buying up soy futures, along with most other commodities, on the open markets, and that'll prop up the prices and make Argentina solvent again, in which case they'll elect a new populist cum criminal who'll keep repeating past mistakes. And the wine will keep getting better.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Argenhot of the Week !


This week's fresh scoop of Argenhotness is none other than Mariquena Cornejo. She's 20-years-old, and from Rosario, Argentina. Yeah, just like Justine last week. Big up Rosarinas. They're roomered to have the hottest women on the planet, but I think it's just hype. Although, 2 weeks in a row ain't bad. Oh, and apparently this gem of Argentasticness is the cousin of famous model and vedette, Jesica Cirio. What's a vedette, who the fuck is Cirio, you ask? How should I know, I'm a gringo. Google it. See her boobies here.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Los Pensamientos de Eduardo Nuñez


Admito que, hasta el día de hoy, nunca entendí por completo el fenómeno del blog.


Es más, ante la crisis, la pandemia y la tendencia de alza en los precios de los cigarrillos y la pizza (mí canasta básica), me pareció que lo último que necesitaba el mundo era otro mal informado delirante exponiendo su filosofía de vida por Internet. Vivimos en tiempos de escasez, pero lo único que sobra son las opiniones disparatadas y fotos de borrachas incautas en los innumerables blogs.


Por lo tanto, confundido por la oferta de un amigo de escribir para este blog, acudí a otro amigo que ha mantenido uno por varios años (al igual que una exclusiva relación amorosa con una tal Manuela Palma, condiciones que insiste son completamente irrelacionadas). En defensa del blog, mi amigo me hizo reflexionar sobre un nuevo y vergonzoso pasatiempos que desarrollé hace varios meses cuando me mudé al quinto piso de un antiguo edificio de San Telmo: mis vecinos.


Todo empezó por casualidad. En una noche de insomnio, acostado al lado de esa ventana que durante meses no había podido cerrar por completo, escuché una fiesta de cumpleaños en el 4a. Al ir a la cocina por un vaso de agua, percibí por las cañerías los ecos de una pelea en el 5b y, por las grietas en las paredes del viejo edificio, una reconciliación en el sexto piso. No fue intencional y hasta me sentí culpable esa primera noche, pero admito que la noche siguiente cené completamente en silencio, atendiendo el desenlace de la pelea del día anterior. Aunque nunca me han gustado las telenovelas, esto me parecía diferente.


Como notó mi amigo, lo que hacía interesantes a esos pequeños momentos no era un deseo de conocer o entender las vidas completas de mis vecinos, sino el hecho de participar en unos segundos, fragmentados y siempre al azar, de la intimidad ajena, cada uno como unas cuantas líneas de un blog.


Por ejemplo, ni conozco el apellido de la anciana que vive en el tercer piso, pero sé, gracias a los ductos de calefacción, exactamente que opina acerca de la novia de su hijo (empieza con 'p' y rima con ruta), las últimas iniciativas de la presidenta (ver comentario anterior) y su ex-esposo (hijo de mil 'ver comentarios anteriores'). Mi vecina es una mujer de pocas pero precisas palabras.


Regresando a casa, me di cuenta que todo Buenos Aires parecía proporcionar esos mismos momentos, el anonimato típico de una ciudad grande combinado con la brutal honestidad igualmente típica de los argentinos. La ciudad se mueve a 120 km/hora por la 9 de Julio, pero se detiene repentina y absolutamente durante una conversación en una esquina. Uno se pierde en las multitudes del subte pero se encuentra en el instante obligatorio de sinceridad al descubrir una mano extraña involuntariamente apretada contra su intimidad cuando las puertas se abren para admitir a 20 pasajeros más en un vagón lleno.


Esos momentos de honestidad completamente desvergonzada, producto de y respuesta colectiva de los porteños al anonimato de la megalópolis, le dan a Buenos Aires su carácter pujante y fascinante, su calidad de un enorme blog al que todos contribuyen.


Entendiendo eso, no me queda de otra que contribuir de alguna manera al fenómeno, aunque sea sólo para proclamar en el subte, "vamos todos apretados, pero dejá de tocarme las pelotas"

Friday, June 5, 2009

How to Fail at Business Without Really Trying


Argentines are bad at business. Period. And it's not some socio-political, deeply historical, "you wouldn't understand if you're not from here" bullshit either. It's a combination between a systemic problem based on a lack of faith in a faulty system and plain old laziness. Yes, you have to take decades of hyper-inflation, currency devaluation, military coups, and a grossly corrupt government into account. But that still doesn't account for the moronically simple mistakes made by local businesses on even the smallest types of transactions. I'll explain.

The Competition Conundrum: In Montserrat there is a restaurant called Tio Angel. It's a typical Porteño cafe selling everything from pizza, steak, pasta, and sandwiches, to coffee, booze, sweets, and salads. Tio Angel is a small business, not corporate-owned, and with a low overhead due to its location and small staff. Tio Angel is open, serving food non-stop from 9am 'til 1am. The menu never changes regardless of the hour.

Within a 3 block radius there are approximately 3 other restaurants, not counting the shady Dominican bar which is open from 8am-8pm and pretty much exclusively caters to off-duty whores and curious hostel hippies. Non of these restaurants is open all day. In fact, aside from the whore bar, you have 2 pizza places open from 12pm-2:30pm, and 8pm-11pm. That's right, roughly 5 1/2 hours daily. The staff most likely makes the same as they do in Tio's, the overhead is similar, and the clientele EXACTLY the same.

And here comes the big surprise folks......Tio Angel makes a whole shit-ton more money. Not only that, but to make up for the losses in volume-based revenue, the other restaurants constantly raise their prices. It's not a secret. When you allow your customers the freedom to choose a more convenient time for them to buy your product, you sell more. You can even charge more for the privilege, and people will pay.

Fuck You Gringo: Which is exactly what businesses are telling you when they blatantly up-charge you based on being a gringo, or non-continental foreigner. You can even see it in their eyes when you buy something. "How much for the beer (in obviously broken Spanish)?"...blank stare, blank stare, and then the pitch, "5 pesos?". Then the Argentine behind you buys it for 3, no reaction from the clerk, and likewise no more gringo business for him. So, my man just lost a potential repeat customer for a one-time gain of 2 pesos. Also, gringos know other gringos, which means he probably just lost 20 customers. But hey, enjoy your fucking 2 pesos.

You see, as much as we look like loud, bumbling, walking ATMs, we're not as dumb as you think. Sure, most gringos think in Dollars, Pounds, and Euros, but we still have a city of 14 million people vying for our business. Which means, if you fuck me over, I'll just move on to the next place who will sell to me fairly, tell all my friends about it, and skyrocket their bottom line. You don't need to go to Wharton to figure that shit out.

Here Today, Gone Tomorrow: This one has a lot to do with almost a century of economic instability. Still, it's annoying as fuck, and not completely necessary. Many Argentine businesses have a seriously hard time coping with profit gains and long-term success potential....What did he just say? Ok. I'll let that sink in. Ready?

When a small business in Argentina shows a bit of life and potential, people go into a panic and start making rash decisions. In other words, unexpected success scares them because they assume that it's either a fluke, or that it won't last. Their solution: grab as much cash as you can quickly by raising prices, slashing salaries, and then sit back and wait for the eventual crash. What this really does is sour any good will you had with your budding clientele, inspire your staff to steal, and destroy your small business.

It's like getting a wink and a smile from a sexy girl in a bar, and instead of chatting, getting her digits, or asking her out to dinner, you pinch her ass and try to drop a finger in her. What does that leave you with? A black eye and a wet finger. Boo-hoo. Sucks, when you could have had weeks, if not years with a potentially amazing woman. It's the same in business. Build on your success potential by understanding the nature of your smaller successes. The few businesses here that do that are vastly successful, and have even weathered some of the toughest times and crisis' in the country.


In conclusion, from what I've seen in my time spent here, the basic Argentine business model goes like this:

-Copy idea of some other moderately successful local business.

-Underpay your employees, assume they will steal because of this.

-Spend the excess money dressing your place up with huge glass facades and tacky signs, much like an airport lobby.

-Convert your pesos to dollars, and further drive up inflation, which also drives up your prices.

-Don't have price tags. Just make shit up as you go along.

-Pay off the cops.

-Blame your eventual failure on either Cristina Kirchner, the weather, or the 2001 economic crisis.

Happy Friday Motherfuckers.
Gringo. Out.